Modern Take on Philippine Culture

Slim’s Fashion and Arts School students were challenged to explore what could make them truly Filipino designers. Turning to all things Philippine for ideas, they tapped into everything from history, culture and literature to run-of-the-mill things like local delicacies and flowers.

While historic garments and tribal costumes were a natural resource, most of the creations are not literal interpretations. The pieces offer a fresh, totally modern take on traditional influences; a far cry from the often cliché renditions that have become synonymous with this theme.

Roald Sena left, Ivan Ruiz right

Many students took everyday objects, incorporating them into the contemporary garments. Ivan Ruiz’s red carpet gown features satin that’s subtly woven like ‘palaspas’, as seen during Palm Sunday rituals. Strong Catholic influences were undeniably present: in Rum Corvera’s fashion sketch inspired by stained glass windows.

Sketch of Rum Corvera

In Stephanie Estanislao’s design ideas sparked by ecclesiastical garments and in garments that incorporate Christian icons into their sleek designs, almost like ‘badges’ of our country’s faith.

Justine Wayne

Some went as far as creating ‘statement’ pieces that verge on conceptual art. Like Justin Nalangan’s piece, which takes a tragic literary figure (Maria Clara) and transforms her into a ‘kawaii’ character, bringing to mind works of Jeffrey Koons and Andy Warhol.  And Roald Sena’s bold hand-painted statement about colonial mentality, transposed on a flamboyant gown. Others used non-visual sources of inspiration, like Marc Carcillar who created handwritten pages from ‘Noli Me Tangere’ on silk organza, his source of inspiration.

Marc John Carcillar with his Noli dress

Marc recounts “dying Filipino soldiers fought and sacrificed their lives for freedom, the design I  created is modern, with the working woman in mind. She is modern, assertive, fighting for who she is.”  The skirt features a custom print blood splatter design; the collar is a take off from the Maria Clara dress. The accent on the white peplum top are “pages” of text from the Dr Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere.  The garment’ s enclosure resembles an embossed leather bookmark.

The depth of conceptual thinking in some of this year’s work is a heartening break for anyone who believes fashion is purely superficial.

Novel ideas aside, the garments boast of superior construction; many feature extremely complex techniques.  This has come to be expected from Slim’s students, given the school is widely known for in-depth technical training. Every garment on display was designed, cut and sewn by the student. In their pattern-making course, each student produces roughly 20 full garments over an average of 12 months. Surprisingly, many of the pieces on display were created by students who are only halfway through their course with ASEAN integration just around the corner, the school’s directors have encouraged students to get to know their own culture, and to develop a distinctive identity that could potentially set them apart from designers of other nations.

Slim’s Fashion & Arts School: The Best of Student Work 2014  is on exhibit  at the 2^nd floor of Greenbelt 5 from October 15-21,2014

Photos courtesy of Slims Fashion School 

All eyes are on the spring and summer collections of 2011 as we usher in the new year. But who stood out in the shows last October? These designers rose above the fray that was unavoidably festooned with undying floral prints and cheery hues. They had vision and the passion to make it real. Check them out!

Lito Perez may seem to have banked on the patriotism trend of 2010, but he did it with such undeniable flair. Thumbing his nose at the predictable map-and-flag branding that most retail brands have overdone, Perez worked with Filipino-colonial-and-revolutionary-period-inspired prints, silhouettes and colors tailored to his vision. He played mostly with black and brown details against a white-dominated canvas, showcasing vintage illustrations of Filipinos and architecture of the aforementioned time. “Noli Me Tangere” is emblazoned on a white tank top, the title of national hero Jose Rizal’s first novel and a statement in itself. Though Perez featured many pieces reminiscent of the period’s style such as the baro’t saya, most of his clothes are modernized and highly-stylized versions that are wearable. There’s something in it for everyone, be it the dramatic, modern terno, the stylish asymmetrical tops, statement polo shirts or the crisp, formal suits.

Filipiniana is a strong theme this season, as even Bandoix Flores seems to relish it. Like Perez, Flores chose to look back and work with historical details and a classic palette, but with a definite regal spin to it. His 50s-inspired silhouettes are given a multicultural Filipino flair, with a touch of Chinese and Spanish influence thrown in. Details such as a black abaniko, embroidered veils, damask designs, and the panuelo give the collection a rich backdrop to timeless designs.

Albert Andrada owes part of the success of his show, entitled Kohinoor, to its elaborate styling. The silvery make-up, heavily-kohled eyes, glittering headpieces and globes of hair complemented the East Asian influences apparent in Andrada’s collection. But more than the bling (and mounds of synthetic goat hair), his collection impressed its audience with show-stopping structures and swathes of fabric in silver, white and gold that merged a decidedly futuristic streak with exotic Indian aesthetics. Though this collection may have been more appropriate to showcase during the holiday season, it has certainly caught our attention and approval.

It wouldn’t be a Kermit Tesoro show if it didn’t have industrial pieces and dangerously high heels mixed in with the designer’s signature avant-garde creations, and he certainly did not disappoint. For this summer, Tesoro showcased a collection whose pieces clung tightly to the body, and shaped as if an insect’s skeleton was turned inside-out with flashes of royal blue, cyan and mustard against nude and black, to keep the details even more riveting. Woven rattan pieces were strewn into the equation, complementing the skeletal shapes of the design.

The 70s inspirations are definitely back. You’ve seen them on international runways, and now our very own Philippine Fashion Week S/S 11 pays tribute to the timeless, no-fuss silhouettes the era was known for. Dave Ocampo showcased polished and sophisticated suits as well as various incarnations of the gray pinstripe. Sleek blazers and trousers lent to business-elegance, yet those tailored for women had a playful spin to them in the cut, length and pops of color. We especially loved the grainy charcoal pants on the long-legged women who all made a sexy, powerful and arresting sight.

Noel Crisostomo knew how to exude spring and summer cool for his collection this season. His perfect white concoctions practically scream fresh, while his breezy floral frocks in leaf green, sunny yellow and playful pink keep it young. The master of clean, simple lines and silhouettes kept the styling to a minimum, and thus achieved great effect: the focus remained on the simple silhouettes, with models that look bright-eyed and ready for summer.

Ronaldo Arnaldo wisely stayed with simple, clean and excellent tailoring for his Spring/Summer collection. His silhouettes are once again an ode to the tailored classics that are chic and functional but with a definitely modern flair.

Chris Diaz does feminine and romantic best, but this time around he showed us how cheeky he can also get. With a touch of retro styling, bursts of spring colors and some animal print thrown into the mix, we can’t help but love the dainty dresses, chic resort wear and the lovely gowns.

Photos by Simon Vistro. Some rights reserved.

Article originally appeared here.